Greece
My first trip to Greece was in the early 90s-yes, a lifetime ago. I loved it then. And, I love it now, not only for its beauty, history and delicious food but now, also for the connection I feel to new family and friends. I visited two islands this Spring and will be heading back to Kalamata for another summer holiday in July.
Updated July 2024--After a month in Wisconsin, I was craving sunshine and a bit of relaxation so I changed up the itinerary to head from London directly to Crete and then Albania (to stop the clock on my 90-day tourist visa in Schengen Area). First stop is Corfu for a couple of days, then Albania for two weeks and finally Kalamata.
Corfu
In darkness, I arrived in Corfu after two very long travel days. The lovely Marina greeted me at the small family-owned hotel I had booked for three, now two, nights. I could smell the sea and see the reflection of the moon but a true view would have to wait until morning.
Morning brought better spirits and the view I was looking for!
No time to waste, even if I just wanted to stay in bed, only one day to see Corfu because of the delays. I braved the bus, which didn't seem so bad until 50 other tourists wanting to see Corfu jumped on board. We were packed in like sweaty, salty sardines. Seriously, it was madness how many people they put on the bus. As we unpacked at the end of the route in Old Town Corfu, the fresh air and smells from markets and bakeries were very welcome. Marina shared that Old Town was unlike other Greek towns because the Venetians ruled it for over 400 years-and she was right! At times, I felt like I was walking in Italy, not a Greek island! Of course, I stopped for a lovely lunch with, you guessed it, Mythos and feta.
After lunch, I made my way to Kanoni on the bus (less busy on this route) to find the monastery and the bridge for plane viewing (otherwise known as part of my way home). I had planned to take the bus back to the hotel but guess what...it was so packed I couldn't get off at my stop, so I kept moving to Benitses, which worked out okay because I found a little market to pick up some dinner and beer. The last part of my day was well deserved....BEACH TIME with a nap!
Day 2 in Corfu-Another day of WHAT IS HAPPENING HERE transportation! I opted for the taxi to head to port for my ferry ride to Albania. I am so glad I did, it was the most relaxing part of the day because that ferry ride was not! More to come on that...
Andros
After arriving in Athens and spending a lovely night reconnecting, we traveled by ferry to the island of Andros, the northernmost island of the Cyclades. As we left the ferry port, I couldn't help but smile at the familiar white homes, goats grazing on the side of the road and the amazing water views as we made our way to meet the others. I was immediately greeted and welcomed in Greek style with embraces and yummy treats.
It was a week filled with Greek Orthodox Easter celebrations, including meatless meals (which could make me a vegetarian!), church bells, chanting, midnight candlelit ceremonies and fireworks throughout the week before the Sunday Easter meal of lamb, potatoes, salad and Kokoretsi (all the lamb's organs wrapped in offals--big no for me).
What I loved most were the sea breezes, the morning walks, lazy afternoons and great conversations. As I relaxed through the week, we ate and laughed (especially when we lost a carrot in the silverware drawer) and ate some more, I felt nothing but a great sense of belonging and peace thanks to my amazing hostess and big Greek family.
Chania, Crete
As much as I loved spending time with family in Andros, it was time to head off on my own again. You know, to see if any great clarity on what to do with my life would come to me. So, I hopped a flight, on a VERY small plane, to Crete for a solo week in Chania.
My AirBNB, chosen for its view and setup, didn't disappoint however it was a bit further from Old Town than expected. It all worked out because I hadn't been walking my 6-10km since Italy so it felt good to be moving more. The hosts lived downstairs and were so gracious and accommodating. They even left me a snack/dinner since I was arriving later in the day. With a quick stop to the grocery store a couple blocks away, a few stops at tavernas for lunch and that snack, I was well-fed all week, even on the thunderstorm day when I couldn't go out!
While most of the days were spent at the beach and wandering around Old Town, I did venture out to the mountains on a tour one day. It was a great way to see the countryside (without me having to drive on the mountain roads). We visited a winery, an olive grove and an olive oil production facility before stopping to see a very old olive tree and have an amazing lunch at a rural taverna.
On one of my last days, I ventured further to a new beach, passing beautiful spots. That walk was worth all the steps to find an overlook of the sea with no one but me- yep, still looking for that clarity that continues to elude me. Ah, guess I will have to keep visiting beautiful places and trying.
Arriving in Chania: Beaches and Countryside